3 years ago, on 2015, I’ve decided to experiment with analogue photography after I got comfortable with digital photography. And I had a simple plan, although without an explicit timeline :
Get into a pin hole photography workshop to see if I really liked the analogue process, before committing more resources into it.
Get started into B&W photography. I chose medium format because I liked the negative size (6×6).
Learn how to develop my own B&W film at home.
Note that in processes that require some investment in tools or equipment such as developer tanks, trays, chemicals, enlargers, etc I prefer to take a workshop first before buying any equipment, should I decide that my time and resources should be spent elsewhere.
However, after becoming comfortable with developing my own B&W film, it only became obvious what the next step should be : printing.
After taking a workshop on B&W printing, I’ve decided to setup my own darkroom.
After deciding to make my own darkroom, several questions had to be answered before investing time and money (and its nothing new for someone who is looking into building one):
Must be easy to be made light tight
Must have room for the enlarger to be permanently assembled
Must have room to have 3 trays + assorted materials for enlargements
Equipment (Bare minimum)
capable of handling 6×6 negatives
capable of handling contrast filters
Bottles to keep the prepared solutions ready for use.
Thankfully, my garage workshop had the space and was easy to be made light tight without much effort (only 1 small window, a vent and a door), with enough room to spare.
Materials / Tools
Some of the equipment, such as the trays and RC paper, I’ve already had from my pinhole experiments.
However, the enlarger had to be sourced from a store 50 Kms away – I was unable to source it locally. The multigrade filters was also purchased from the same store.
I was able to source an Meopta Opemus 6 enlarger, with an 80mm lens. The Enlarger was in a very good state (it was brought a trusty store). With a bit of maintenance, it got even better.
As for the safe light, I sourced a RGB Led strip locally. So far, when set to red, no fogging was observed on the enlargements.
I’m still lacking some equipment, that although it is not crucial, it will make my life easier :
A focus finder.
An timer for the enlarger (probably going to build my own).
For the time being, for the first darkroom, although usable, there is still some more work such as :
Better separation between the dark and wet areas.
The enlarger should be enclosed, probable with a curtain
The initial sensor module was done with an Arduino + DS18B20 sensor and a ENC28J60 ethernet chip. It was pretty fast to build a prototype that would send data via ethernet to a server running a LAMP stack.
However, since I want to have sensors trough out the house (including the exterior), it became a problem since I’m unable to pass an Ethernet cable everywhere I might need a sensor module installed.
The cheapest to add wifi capabilities to an arduino based system would be to add an ESP8622 wifi module :
They are low priced – around 1,7€ a piece on ebay.
Answer to AT commands via serial communication (thus an arduino board could simply send AT commands to the module with the data).
But upon more reading, it was also noted that the ESP8266 could be used as a stand alone module, without the arduino hardware. This helps drive the cost and assembly complexity of each module down further. A major plus was the fact that the arduino IDE can be used with the ESP8266, work with most libraries already included, without changes to software development workflow.
And since the ESP8266 supports I2C and 1 wire data buses, any sensor supporting those protocols can be added to a ESP8266 module.
Sensor module variants
A total of 3 variants of the ESP8266 based sensor module, as of 17th February, were built:
A module only using a temperature sensor (the DS18B20), with no RTC on board. Exists in breadboard form only and it is currently in use.
A module using both a DHT22 humidity and temperature sensor, and also a DS18B20 sensor. Also without RTC support. Module was disassembled and parts used on the PCB version 1.0.
A module using a DHT22 humidity and temperature sensor, with a DS1337 RTC, as used on my Nixie Clock. This version was built on a PCB designed in KICAD, and it is currently in use.
Changes to the Home Monitoring System Architecture
Almost a year later, and a working prototype, the development of the monitoring system had reached a standstill, mostly due to the lack of time :
On the sensor side , the Arduino + ENC28J60 + DS18B20 combo works, although it is dependent on the availability of a network cable. But the hardware is functional.
On the server side , the development of a backend and frontend with the flexibility required (multiple sensor support, dashboard with user selected time intervals, etc) was starting to take too much time.
So I was faced with a decision regarding the server side of the system:
Fully development of a frontend and backend , using a LAMP stack and bootstrap templates. This would take time that I simply don’t have, and the project would probably still be stalled.
On the hardware side, I had some ESP8622 (ESP-12) modules to try out.
Server Side changes
The server side of the Monitoring system was the one that was the most time consuming.
One of the major changes was the replacement of the LAMP stack for elasticsearch and kibana for data storage and visualization respectively. This removed the need to write a backend and a frontend from scratch. The time that would be spent on writing the back and front ends was spent on the sensor module development (both hardware and software).
Elasticsearch, according to the authors:
” Elasticsearch is an open source distributed, RESTful search and analytics engine capable of solving a growing number of use cases.”
With elasticsearch, the sensor modules sends data in json , instead of sending the data via http get to a php script with the previous Monit System architecture.
And a dashboard with visualizations of the data can be done in minutes.
Although the arduino + enc28J60 sensor module was not entirely abandoned, hardware development focus was oriented on the ESP8622 based modules.
The ESP8622 have some interesting advantages over the arduino + ENC28J60 combination :
The ESP8622 can be sourced from around 1,7 € a piece (ESP-12) (and it replaces the arduino board and the ENC28J60 in one package)
It can be used with the Arduino IDE , and use most of its libraries (no need to learn a new SDK and new tools).
No additional network hardware required, since the ESP module is a wifi module first and foremost (DHCP, WPA2 supported out of the box), and thus I could place the sensor module anywhere as long as there is wifi coverage, including the exterior of the house.
Less parts per module, since the ESP8622 has an ARM CPU besides the WiFi capabilities : besides the module itself, only the sensor, a RTC (if needed) and some passive components are needed.
However the usage of the bare modules are not as “plug and play” as with arduino boards – additional hardware and wiring required . This is not an issue since the final goal is to have a custom made PCB for the sensor module.
For a long , long time I wanted to have a system to monitor, and perform data collection, on my home.
A modular system where I could gather data from indoor and outdoor temperatures to local power consumption.
The system is meant to be designed in such manner that the server side is fully abstracted from the sensor module side, more sensors modules may be implemented on different hardware platforms. There can be as many sensor modules as required, connected on a single Ethernet network.
For quite a while, since I began to feel more comfortable with using my DSLR on manual mode, I had the desire to get into film photography of a while, being pinhole photography the first milestone.
However, for me to deal with film photography, the only practical choices were 35mm film or 120 film, in regards to availability. My main choice was 120mm due to the fact that the negatives are larger, making it more practical to handle and to make contact prints in the future. The unfortunate side effect is that it is harder to load into the film spiral during film development preparation. And, of course, way less exposures per roll than 35mm film. Another point to consider is camera price. A 120 film camera is, in general, more expensive that a 35mm camera.
My budget for the camera was set to 120€. In one hand I could get a Holga 120N pretty cheap and call it a day. Lets just say I quickly changed my mind.
The other choice was to get a Twin Lens Reflex (TLR) camera. But due to most if the cameras on my price range being used cameras (and 100% mechanical), I was wary of getting then on ebay, therefore I’ve decided to source the camera locally, at a store that could sell me a clean and tested camera. Unfortunately such stores are 50Km away, in a neighboring town.
The camera that fulfilled my criteria without looking like a dug up, rusty fossil, or a plastic toy was the flexaret VII automat.
On paper, 1/500 sec maximum shutter speed sounds quite nice, but it also means that the camera uses a more complex leaf shutter design.
After being in a workshop on pinhole photography (held at offo, in Aveiro), and getting a grasp of the development process, it was time to actually start to build a simple camera, as well as to start developing its pictures.
But the initial results were not quite what I expected in terms of sharpness.