3D printing is a rabbit hole. In one hand, it is an extremely flexible tool. The possibility to quickly go from a drawing, from an idea to a physical object, at an affordable price, is simply amazing. In other hand, depending on the person (if one likes to thinker), it becomes a hobby in itself.
When engaging a new tool, a new hobby I usually start with a cheaper tool, and then decide if I should pursue the hobby further should I outgrow the tool. This is where I am at with my ender 3 V2.
Inércia Demoparty 2022 was the 1st Demoparty of the revived “Associação Inércia”, since 2006.
From 2002 to 2006 Inercia demoparty was held by the previous Inercia association. From 2006 to 2021 the organization fell back to psenough and jeenio, depending on the edition.
Inercia demoparty is the only regularly held demoscene event in Portugal.
So as far as I am concerned this demo party represents a new stage for the Portuguese demoscene. We may be few, but the Portuguese scene is still alive and well.
A small disclaimer : I’ve been involved only in designing and making the trophies for the Inercia Demoparty 2022. And this report is not meant to be a comprehensive report on every event at the party. And that this party report is my own personal opinion.
As far as I am concerned, Jeenio’s initiative of reviving Inercia association, and thus ensuring continuation of Inercia Demoparty, was a very important milestone on the portuguese demoscene.
And, as such, I wanted to find a way to contribute to Inércia demoparty. One of the organizers, psenough, asked for someone to print the trophies for the compos , and it seemed to be a good synergy between what I like to do and what contribution would be useful to the party.
How it began
Work on the trophies for the Inercia Demoparty 2022 began on April of 2022, using harvestpt Inercia designs as basis. I was given free reign on the design and materials to use.
The community onscenePT discord was consulted and regularly informed of the progress of the work on the trophy design as it happened.
The major goal was to have a custom designed trophy – I did not want to just get a trophy from thingiverse and stick a inercia logo on it.
The trophies were designed on blender, sliced on Cura and printed on a Ender 3V2.
The list is not complete. I´ve decided to stick to libyaul. On windows it was simple to setup, examples could be easy compiled out of the box, and it has a helpful and active community on discord , where the author of libyaul is also part of.
The make file was just a modified makefile already available from the exemples provided with libyaul.
//init the subsystem to print debug text to the screen
dbgio_printf("\x1b[H\x1b[2J"); // clears the screen
dbgio_printf("Hello World\n"); // actual text
dbgio_flush(); // flush
vdp_sync(); // required at the end of each frame
However, where are some situations where the correct exposure is difficult to determine. On such cases, one could use a second camera for TTL metering (such as DSLR), a phone app…or a light meter.
On my location, an new sektronick light meter price varies from 109 € to 600 € depending on the model. On ebay you could get an used, cheaper , vintage light meter, but your mileage might vary.
So since the price and availability of light meters were not to my liking, I’ve decided to build my own from scratch, based on an arduino board, with some help of Pedro Virtebo, at Maquinas de Outros Tempos.
Bear in mind this is not the first or last time anyone has done something similar, a simple google search show a ton of similar projects, with different levels of polish. But just implementing these would not give me enough understanding of how a light meter works.
As someone who likes to collect video games, including arcade hardware, I was looking for a replacent for my current arcade cabinet (a wood cabinet with a 20″ Hantarex 15Khz monitor that I was still reparing).
3 years ago, on 2015, I’ve decided to experiment with analogue photography after I got comfortable with digital photography. And I had a simple plan, although without an explicit timeline :
Get into a pin hole photography workshop to see if I really liked the analogue process, before committing more resources into it.
Get started into B&W photography. I chose medium format because I liked the negative size (6×6).
Learn how to develop my own B&W film at home.
Note that in processes that require some investment in tools or equipment such as developer tanks, trays, chemicals, enlargers, etc I prefer to take a workshop first before buying any equipment, should I decide that my time and resources should be spent elsewhere.
However, after becoming comfortable with developing my own B&W film, it only became obvious what the next step should be : printing.
After taking a workshop on B&W printing, I’ve decided to setup my own darkroom.
After deciding to make my own darkroom, several questions had to be answered before investing time and money (and its nothing new for someone who is looking into building one):
Must be easy to be made light tight
Must have room for the enlarger to be permanently assembled
Must have room to have 3 trays + assorted materials for enlargements
Equipment (Bare minimum)
capable of handling 6×6 negatives
capable of handling contrast filters
Bottles to keep the prepared solutions ready for use.
Thankfully, my garage workshop had the space and was easy to be made light tight without much effort (only 1 small window, a vent and a door), with enough room to spare.
Materials / Tools
Some of the equipment, such as the trays and RC paper, I’ve already had from my pinhole experiments.
However, the enlarger had to be sourced from a store 50 Kms away – I was unable to source it locally. The multigrade filters was also purchased from the same store.
I was able to source an Meopta Opemus 6 enlarger, with an 80mm lens. The Enlarger was in a very good state (it was brought a trusty store). With a bit of maintenance, it got even better.
As for the safe light, I sourced a RGB Led strip locally. So far, when set to red, no fogging was observed on the enlargements.
I’m still lacking some equipment, that although it is not crucial, it will make my life easier :
A focus finder.
An timer for the enlarger (probably going to build my own).
For the time being, for the first darkroom, although usable, there is still some more work such as :
Better separation between the dark and wet areas.
The enlarger should be enclosed, probable with a curtain
The initial sensor module was done with an Arduino + DS18B20 sensor and a ENC28J60 ethernet chip. It was pretty fast to build a prototype that would send data via ethernet to a server running a LAMP stack.
However, since I want to have sensors trough out the house (including the exterior), it became a problem since I’m unable to pass an Ethernet cable everywhere I might need a sensor module installed.
The cheapest to add wifi capabilities to an arduino based system would be to add an ESP8622 wifi module :
They are low priced – around 1,7€ a piece on ebay.
Answer to AT commands via serial communication (thus an arduino board could simply send AT commands to the module with the data).
But upon more reading, it was also noted that the ESP8266 could be used as a stand alone module, without the arduino hardware. This helps drive the cost and assembly complexity of each module down further. A major plus was the fact that the arduino IDE can be used with the ESP8266, work with most libraries already included, without changes to software development workflow.
And since the ESP8266 supports I2C and 1 wire data buses, any sensor supporting those protocols can be added to a ESP8266 module.
Sensor module variants
A total of 3 variants of the ESP8266 based sensor module, as of 17th February, were built:
A module only using a temperature sensor (the DS18B20), with no RTC on board. Exists in breadboard form only and it is currently in use.
A module using both a DHT22 humidity and temperature sensor, and also a DS18B20 sensor. Also without RTC support. Module was disassembled and parts used on the PCB version 1.0.
A module using a DHT22 humidity and temperature sensor, with a DS1337 RTC, as used on my Nixie Clock. This version was built on a PCB designed in KICAD, and it is currently in use.